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Mindo Cloud Forest

Mist moves through the trees of Mindo like something alive, drifting between mossy branches and curtains of hanging vines just two hours from the traffic and altitude of Quito. This is cloud forest proper, cooler and wetter than the Amazon lowlands, its canopy dripping with bromeliads and orchids that cling to every available surface. More than four hundred bird species have been recorded here, and dawn brings the low hum of the forest waking, hummingbirds darting between feeders in a blur of iridescent green and violet, some no bigger than a thumb.

A cable strung across the valley carries an open air tarabita over the treetops, the forest floor dropping away beneath dangling boots. Waterfalls thread through the reserve in a chain reachable on foot, cool spray rising off rock pools where swimming is often possible after the hike down. Chocolate grows here too, and a visit to a small processing operation ends with the deep, bitter snap of cacao roasted and ground by hand. Mindo rewards those willing to get wet, muddy and thoroughly outpaced by a hummingbird, a forest that hums, drips and glows long after the mist has cleared.

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