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Campeche

Campeche keeps its colours close, a walled city on the Gulf coast where every façade seems painted in a different shade of coral, mustard or turquoise. The old ramparts and bastions, built centuries ago against pirate raids, still ring the historic centre, some now housing small museums of cannon and coral stone. Streets run in a tidy colonial grid, balconies wrought in iron, doorways framed with carved stone, the whole centre calm in a way that feels almost staged, though nothing here has been dressed up for visitors.

Along the Malecón, the sea wall stretches for miles, joggers and cyclists passing beneath a line of modern sculpture as the Gulf turns pewter at dusk. Inland, the Maya sites of Edzna and Calakmul lie within reach, the latter buried so deep in jungle that howler monkeys outnumber tourists among its pyramids. Campeche itself moves slowly after dark, plastic chairs spilling from cafes onto the square, marimba drifting past shopfronts lit in soft colour. It is a city built for wandering without a map, each turn revealing another wall worth stopping for.

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