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Playa del Carmen

Playa del Carmen runs along a strip of white sand facing Cozumel, its energy quite different from the quiet coastline further south. Quinta Avenida cuts through the centre for miles, a pedestrian artery of open air cafes, jewellery stalls and taco counters where the crowd thickens after sunset. By day the beach clubs take over, sun loungers and infinity pools pressed right up against the shoreline, the water shifting between turquoise and deep blue depending on the light.

Offshore, the reef that runs along this coast draws divers and snorkellers to walls thick with coral and passing rays, Cozumel itself a short ferry ride across glassy water. Inland, cenotes such as Kantun Chi offer a cooler contrast, freshwater pools shaded by roots and vines just a short drive from the beach. Playa del Carmen sits at the centre of the Riviera Maya's spread of resorts and ruins, close enough to Tulum and the reefs to serve as a base, lively enough after dark to hold its own as a destination.

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