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Tulum

Tulum is where the jungle meets the Caribbean without ceremony, limestone cliffs dropping straight to sand the colour of bone. The ruins here are modest compared to Chichen Itza or Uxmal, but no other Maya site sits so close to turquoise water, El Castillo perched on its bluff with waves breaking below. Iguanas bask motionless on the ancient walls, unbothered by visitors, while pelicans skim the surf just beyond the cliff edge.

South of the ruins, a single beach road runs past palm thatched cabanas and low key restaurants serving ceviche under string lights. Inland, the Sian Ka'an biosphere reserve stretches out in mangroves and hidden lagoons, a place where flamingos and crocodiles share the same still water. Cenotes dot the surrounding jungle too, Gran Cenote and Dos Ojos among them, their caverns opening into pools so clear the fish appear to hang in mid air. Tulum moves at two speeds, languid on the sand and alive after dark, a town that never quite lets the ruins out of sight.

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