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The Pantanal

The Pantanal spreads across Brazil's interior in a vast patchwork of flooded grassland, the world's largest tropical wetland and, mile for mile, its richest stage for wildlife. Unlike the dense canopy of the Amazon, the terrain here is open, a mosaic of lagoons, palm-studded savannah and gallery forest where animals are seen rather than merely sensed. Jaguars stalk the riverbanks in daylight, a sight almost unheard of elsewhere on the continent, while capybara graze in herds and hyacinth macaws streak overhead in flashes of cobalt blue.

Days unfold at a horseback pace, quite literally, since much of the region is explored on foot, by 4x4, or in the saddle alongside Pantaneiro cowboys who have worked this land for generations. Boat trips along the Cuiabá and Paraguay rivers bring close encounters with caiman basking on the banks and giant river otters fishing in family groups, while dawn and dusk drives reveal anteaters, tapirs and the marsh deer that gives the wetland its name. The dry season, from around July to September, concentrates wildlife along shrinking waterholes, turning every bend in the river into a potential sighting. Few places on earth offer wildlife encounters this reliable, or this wild.

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