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Santiago

Santiago sits in a wide valley with the Andes rising sudden and snow streaked at its back, a skyline of glass towers giving way, block by block, to earthquake low neighbourhoods of tiled roofs and jacaranda trees. From the Costanera Center's viewing deck, the city spreads out in a haze of afternoon light, the mountains close enough to feel like weather rather than scenery. Down in Bellavista, murals cover garage doors and side streets, and terrace bars fill with the smell of grilled meat and the sound of guitar from somewhere unseen.

The Mercado Central hums by mid morning, its iron rafters shading stalls piled with conger eel, sea urchin, and razor clams pulled from the Pacific that same night. A short walk away, the hills of Cerro Santa Lucía offer a climb of a few hundred steps to a lookout point where the whole basin opens up, cathedral spires and apartment blocks pressed together below. Evenings belong to Providencia and Lastarria, where cellar bars pour Carmenère by the glass and dinner runs late, unhurried, the mountains fading to a dark outline against a city that never quite goes quiet.

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