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Tortuguero

No roads lead to Tortuguero. The only ways in are by boat or light aircraft, gliding along canals walled in green, where herons stand motionless in the shallows and howler monkeys call from the canopy before dawn. The village itself is a strip of sand between lagoon and sea, its wooden houses painted in bright Caribbean colours and linked by sandy paths rather than streets.

Life here follows the water. Early morning boat trips through the national park's narrow channels reveal caimans on the banks, sloths curled high in the branches and kingfishers flashing low across the surface. From July to October, green turtles haul themselves up the long black sand beach at night to nest, one of the great natural events of the Caribbean coast. It is a place of slow rhythms, where the loudest sound after dark is the rain.

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