Auckland

Auckland can often be seen as a transitory gateway city, but it really does deserve some time in it’s own right. Nestled within it’s own Volcanic Field of over 50 dormant craters, Rangitoto Island, the youngest and tallest of the cones, sits in clear view across the water from the recently regenerated harbour area, now brimming with pavement cafes and chic bars. The Sky Tower offers a commanding panoramic 360 degree view, encompassing the Harbour Bridge, downtown and multiple islands. On a clear day, and I was lucky enough to have one, views stretch to around fifty miles in every direction. Back on terra ferma the All Blacks Experience is just a few steps away. As a long standing rugby fan I was predisposed to enjoy it, but I would wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone, regardless of whether they could tell a prop from a full back. It tells a broader and deeply moving story of Maori culture and New Zealand national identity, with interactive and genuinely fun experiences throughout, and the Haka alone is worth every penny of the entrance fee.

Hobbiton

Keen to explore further afield, Rotorua was an easy choice. Just over halfway between Auckland and Rotorua lies one of New Zealand's most famous attractions: Hobbiton. Set on a working farm in the Waikato region, Hobbiton has become one of the country's most visited tourist destinations, and it is easy to see why.

After departing from The Shire's Rest Café aboard a small coach, visitors are welcomed via a video introduction from Sir Peter Jackson before arriving in the heart of the Shire itself. What follows is a delightful guided walk, offering plenty of photo opportunities and the perfect balance of fascinating facts and light-hearted fun. The tour includes a visit to Bagshot Row, where guests can duck inside a Hobbit Hole and explore a fully furnished hobbit home complete with a well-stocked pantry and cleverly scaled furniture. It's a wonderfully immersive experience.

Rotorua

Rotorua sits at the heart of New Zealand's North Island and is renowned for its geothermal activity. The unmistakable sulphurous scent in the air serves as a constant reminder that you are somewhere truly unique. However, Rotorua offers far more than geysers and bubbling mud pools. It is also an important centre of Maori culture and a region of outstanding natural beauty.

Te Puia brings together many of Rotorua's highlights in a single attraction. Alongside its geothermal wonders, it is home to the New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute, including the National Schools of Wood Carving, Bone Carving and Weaving, as well as a Kiwi conservation centre. Guided tours provide an engaging and informative introduction to the site while still allowing ample time to explore independently.

I had been told that the Hangi buffet lunch was among the best dining options in the area, and it certainly lived up to expectations. Featuring a wide range of fresh, locally sourced produce, there was something to suit every palate.

Just around the corner from Te Puia is the Redwoods Treewalk, a wonderful way to spend an hour or two among the forest canopy. Although these redwoods are relatively young at around 120 years old, they still inspire a remarkable sense of awe. Elevated walkways and suspension bridges provide a unique perspective of these towering giants, while the on-site glowworm cave adds another dimension of natural wonder.

Around 30 minutes south of Rotorua, along the aptly named Thermal Explorer Highway, lies Wai-O-Tapu, one of New Zealand's most extraordinary geothermal landscapes. The centrepiece is the Lady Knox Geyser, which erupts daily at 10:15am with a little human assistance, sending a jet of water up to 20 metres into the air.

While the geyser may be the headline attraction, Wai-O-Tapu is far from a one-trick pony. Its name translates as "Sacred Waters", and a network of walking trails leads visitors through a dramatic landscape of boiling mud pools, colourful geothermal terraces, steaming craters, the famous Champagne Pool and a host of scenic viewpoints. I had allocated a full morning for my visit but could easily have spent much longer exploring.

No visit to Rotorua would be complete without experiencing one of the region's renowned thermal spas. Wai Ariki was our chosen retreat. Its restorative journey combines hot and cold pools overlooking the lake, saunas, steam rooms and therapeutic mud treatments, all framed by traditional Maori cultural elements and a welcoming blessing. After several busy days of sightseeing, it was the perfect way to relax and reflect on an unforgettable North Island adventure.