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Manaus

Manaus rises improbably from the rainforest, a city of over two million people a thousand miles from the nearest coast, its opera house domed in Alsace tiles standing as a monument to the rubber boom that built it. But the real draw lies just beyond the docks, where the black waters of the Rio Negro meet the muddy Solimões at the Meeting of the Waters, two rivers running side by side for kilometres without blending, one warm and pale, one cool and dark as tea. From here, the Amazon itself begins, and a river cruise slips away from the city's noise within the hour, trading concrete for a green horizon that barely changes and yet is never still.

Days aboard settle into the rhythm of the river. Skiffs peel off at dawn to spot pink river dolphins surfacing beside the boat, or to cast a line for piranha in a flooded forest channel where the water has risen metres up the tree trunks. Nights bring caiman spotted by torchlight along the banks, their eyes flashing red in the dark, and the endless static hum of the jungle pressing in from every side. A stop at a riverside community means fresh tucumã fruit and cassava bread, and a chance to watch life unfold on stilted houses that rise and fall with the water by season. Manaus is the gateway, but the Amazon beyond it is the destination, a vast, breathing wilderness best seen slowly, from the deck of a boat drifting downriver.

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