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Torres del Paine / Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales sits at the edge of the Última Esperanza Fjord, a working town turned gateway to some of Patagonia's wildest scenery. A morning sailing along the Señoret Channel passes mountains, waterfalls and scattered estancias, with Patagonian birdlife tracking the boat's progress. Nearing Mount Balmaceda, a walk through forests of coihue and ñirre leads towards its glacier, before the route continues on to Serrano Glacier. At Estancia Perales, a whisky tasting poured over ice thousands of years old comes ahead of lunch, a fitting toast to the ice fields that shaped this corner of the world.

eyond the fjord lies Torres del Paine, recently named the Eighth Wonder of the World and unmistakably deserving of the title. The approach passes Milodón Cave, a vast cavern set into the rock, and Cerro Castillo, a historic estancia that carries the spirit of Patagonia's early settlers. Inside the park, the granite spires that give the reserve its name rise above turquoise lakes, Sarmiento, Nordenskjöld, Pehoé and Grey among them, each fed by ice from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. A walk through lenga forest towards Lake Grey brings views of Grey Glacier, its fractured blue ice drifting quietly on the water below.

 

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